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Windell Oskay
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There's no straightforward way to calculate that with the amount of information that you've given. The coordinates in the horizontal direction are absolute. As I said: 3200 pixels corresponds to one complete revolution, so if you know the circumf…
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The LED on pin 13 is not really related to the bootloader-- it just indicates that the Diavolino is "awake" and past the bootloader stage. There should be a delay between when you reset it and the first blink.
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You might want to consider loading the ArduinoISP sketch onto that leostick (if possible) and try to do this the "recommended" way. Auto reset is not absolutely necessary. You can often program the device if you press the reset button at just the r…
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Yes to all of those-- and thanks! A few more points of interest, too: - PD7 is "designated" as a place for an extra LED, but is actually also available for hacking in any way that you like. - PD0 and PD1 go to an extra serial interface (J5). We …
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There is no such list, because pixels correspond to angles, not to inches. For each motor, a movement of 3200 pixels corresponds to one complete revolution. If you are printing on an egg that is one inch in diameter, then 3200 pixels corresponds t…
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> after 5 seconds of being plugged in I smelled burning My advice: Do not plug that thing back in until you've figured out what the pinout of it is, and how it *should* be connected to the Diavolino. >could you offer a better description of …
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I don't know what the pinout for that particular adapter is, but it's likely not directly compatible. From the page on that site, "6 pins for 3.3V, RST, TXD, RXD, GND & 5V." If this is the order of the pins, you'll need to do some creative rewi…
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It would likely work somewhat, but it will definitely have a large loss in sensitivity. The sensors send infrared light up, and look for reflections back. If it's dark enough to look mirror-like to your eyes, it's likely passing less than 1% of th…
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Well, you'll have to drop the extra voltage somewhere. And, with components like these, you're not going to get much efficiency, no matter what you do.
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We are behind schedule, but yes, we still have plans to finish up and release the kit. We won't be offering blueprints for it until we're happy with the design and ready to release it.
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As long as the supercap has voltage capacity greater than that of the solar cell, you can connect it directly in parallel with the battery.
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Well, that's an unusual problem with the reset-- I'm really not sure what's going on there. As for the crash, that is actually news to us. There is a known bug in Inkscape that means that the software "cancel" button does not work, but it shouldn't…
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Hi Carl, The older EBB firmware (which ships with the Eggbot) supports all features that are required by the Eggbot extensions for Inkscape, and is known to work well. So, we do not recommend updating the firmware to the newest version unless you …
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I'm afraid that I don't have any personal experience with this LCD. Have you followed the Adafruit tutorial on wiring and programming this display ( http://ladyada.net/products/nokia5110/ ) ? They also have a support forum for LCD display issue…
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Have you been able to get some of the existing simple demos to work, such as MeggyJr_CheckButtonsPress and MeggyJr_EasyDrawDots?
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So far as I know, this cannot be done directly. It looks like general polygons can't be part of footprints. However, building it out of lines is actually a pretty good workaround. I was able to draw an open star with just five line segments (six …
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From what I can tell, that uses the same chip, so it will be compatible. (Our own store carries a similar board, the FTDI Friend, which is basically the same but with the addition of a few configuration options.)
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Well, "maybe." In our demo, we used a current-controlled transistor. High-power LED drivers may or may not be able to accept and respond to a fast control signal (depending on whether or not they are designed for PWM), and if so, you'll likely have…
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By "low-voltage position" I just meant that it was held electrically low (close to ground). > the positive pin of every LED in row 1 is in continuity with the emitter pin (right-most) of EVERY transistor. This should not be the case; compare wit…
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If I understand correctly, whenever an LED lights anywhere, the LED in row 1 but in the same column as that LED lights up as well. That suggests that the transistor on row 1 is stuck in the "on" position. Using your multimeter, check to see if the…
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>Using the continuity tester on my multimeter, when powered on, the + and - leads of the LEDS on Row 1 are continuous. I'm not sure what you mean by "continuous" here. The square-hole sides are connected together in every row, and the round-hol…
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>There is no scroll-bar on this window so I can't see anthing that won't fit on one screen. Hmmm. Most web pages do not have built-in scroll bars. How do you *normally* scroll down a web page? (I use the scroll wheel, trackpad, or page-down key…
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Good catch! I've added it to the wiki page.
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Yes, that sounds like what I'd do.
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I'd suggest attaching the battery box via the USB 6-pin connector, using a 6-pin female header socket strip. Since you have the USB power jumper installed, you probably don't need to run both power and USB at the same time.
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If you managed to damage the first LED D1 when you soldered it in, you may want to be a little more gentle with your soldering-- those don't usually fail. The connection of button b1 to pin PC1 is shown above. If you're reading 0 V on that p…
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It is likely that you have a short circuit somewhere in the control section that is holding the base of one of the transistors low-- or just connecting it to a neighboring signal. This could be either at the transistor itself (which you have alread…
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The correct behavior on startup is that D0, D1, D2, D3, and D4 should light up. So, it's not that some of your LEDs are shifted, it's just that one of them is not lighting up. Check the soldering at that LED location, and at the pins of the LED dr…
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Very nice!
