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One thing to consider is how you're going to reprogram the clock to take advantage of the speaker. If you're going to use the USB-serial interface, then repurpose the ISP pins. If you're going to use the ISP interface, repurpose the serial pins.
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We are currently working on an all-new version of the Alpha Clock Five firmware, which has an updated toolchain and will (hopefully) be a little easier for people to modify. The new firmware is currently at the stage of adding the menus, options, a…
It's no problem to do so, so long as you use the correct load resistor for the different LEDs.
Step 8 of the assembly guide mentions this possibility: "Advanced tip: If you are using multiple LED colors on a single Octolively module, make sure th…
No, not necessarily. While you shouldn't scuff your feet along the carpet and then try to zap the boards, they're pretty robust with respect to general handling.
For long term storage, preventing moisture should generally be the chief concern-- s…
Hi Relaxing, Every LED in each vertical column is connected together by a printed copper trace, on the back side of the Peggy 2LE circuit board, that runs along each row and connects the "round" hole of each LED together.
(The "square" holes conne…
While I have not done this myself (I do not have an STK500), it should definitely be possible. Let me ask a couple of things to point you in the right direction.
- Was this a preprogrammed ATmega644A (e.g., for the Alpha Clock Five)? If so, the…
Ah-- bad timing for my reply!
On the next panel, see if you can identify any similar types of soldering issues-- they're responsible for a good 90% of things that ever go wrong.
> The other LED's in the quadrant of the panel I mentioned are off.
Then, there are (at least) two independent problems here.
Problem 1: The LEDs are not responsive, stuck in one "direction"Problem 2: The LEDs in the other half of the quadra…
> Two of my six panels have an arrangement of 5 lights (trapezoidal pattern) that stay lit up and do not interact in any way. I haven't been able to find the problem. Any ideas?
One panel at a time: Are those 5 LEDs on full bright, or only a li…
If you are indeed getting some LED light in every row (or at least, almost every row), then the AVR microcontroller is indeed running and scanning between the rows. If so, it should be possible to reprogram it, and that's a separate issue.
If pushi…
Revised firmware is one of our active projects right now; likely will be complete within the next few weeks.
We do not currently have a plan for a new case design (except for a few minor updates). For daisy-chained use, if you don't need the butto…
The CPU is indeed initially configured to light up every LED in "P2" mode, so that should be OK.
With the default initial firmware, I am not aware of any common issue that would cause only blue LEDs not to light. You might try reflashing it with so…
Yes, that would be the problem right there. That's actually a different chip, with a different signature, from the one supported by Arduino.
You can work around this by changing the expected signature in your avrdude.conf file, following the instru…
And, to be clear, you are *not* reporting nearly enough information here to figure out what the problem is. I can give you a list of things to check (like, for example, that your target chip actually is an an ATmega328P), but until you can see the …
There is supposed to be a line above that one, saying what it actually read-- the "expected signature" line always follows that if the value is wrong. It should be something like "avrdude: Device signature = 0x1e9514 .
You may need to just scroll …
Hi David, It would be helpful if you would ask for assistance *before* getting to the point that you conclude that you can't make it work or that you feel that you need to tell us repeatedly that your son is disappointed. We can make it work, but …
The Bulbdial clock has a number of brightness options, including a "sleep" mode where the LEDs are fully off-- usually managed by the 'z' button. You should be able to add a feature that turns off the LEDs at night without too much trouble.
Then the crystal caps are indeed the likely culprit-- the crystal may simply not run if the caps are that far off from spec. It's likely worse than you think, because a breadboard adds quite a bit of stray capacitance, too.
I'm not entirely clear on what you're trying to do, and what's not working here.
- Is the AVR working correctly when it is in the Diavolino, or in the breadboard, or both?
- What's not working, or otherwise leading you to suspect a clock issue?
Likely not hopeless; the FTDI chips are pretty well supported, and generally can be made to work one way or another. (I do not have the same level of confidence with respect to the leostick.)
See if you can map your adapter onto the "standard" FTDI …
>So should I be able to tell for sure that it's working by actually testing the current through the reset pin?
Maybe. Easier to just check for continuity and that pin 1 is either high or low, respectively, when an external signal is disconnecte…
The "blink" sketch is loaded in a single step *on top* of the Arduino bootloader, so (if you haven't reprogrammed it) there shouldn't be any way for it to blink unless the bootloader is indeed active.
You might also check to be sure that the 10 k re…